![1010.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmS3ZvKVZfmnRMrqmH8XwxgBxxJWYmREjM1nrqYw8qxa1d/1010.jpg) Hello Friends :)

Before we gonna start to grow our own bonsai ,we gonna look what kind of bonsai realy is by styles , forms and shapes. Wood shapes can also be taken from books, but the artist's attitude and perception of beauty is very important for the design of bonsai style and form. The beginner has a great benefit in watching the trees in the wild. Bonsai styles arent fictitious of human, they are created in the very nature.
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 Miniature trees are classified into these types:

a) Everybody who is green for all four seasons.
b) Flowering Spring.
c) Woods, which are the most beautiful when leaflets are released in the spring.
d) Flowering in the fall.
e) Trees, which are the most beautiful in autumn when the leaves change the color.
f) Flowering in the summer.
g) Trees is full of cheerful summer leaves and leaves it cool.
h) Mi-momo: trees that bring fruit in the spring, summer and autumn.
i) Woodpeckers, the beauty of which unfolds through peculiar forms of branches and trunks. They are beautiful in winter when they drop the leaves.

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![1010.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmS3ZvKVZfmnRMrqmH8XwxgBxxJWYmREjM1nrqYw8qxa1d/1010.jpg) 
In Japanese bonsai culture, based on a typical growth form and number of strains, has evolved into classic main styles. Therefore, in order to start forming bonsai, it is necessary to know what styles are and what rules apply to their cultivation and care. Here is two basement bonsai styles: style of '' one by one'' and ''Multi-room'' style. 

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Lets take look a first kind of ''one by one'' bonsai sub-styles :

[1] Bankan style - a strain with many curves - a 'snake ring'.
In Japanese poetry, Bankan means a wave of feelings. This style is practically impossible and almost no longer used by contemporary masters. Famous Bankan-style bonsai trees were created at the beginning of this century. It's an old Chinese style, where the trunks of the tree trunk are shaped to the final limit (sometimes the trunk can even be knotted with nodes). It resembles a monstrous knot style or dragon. There is no other translation for this term.

 http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/bankan.png
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[2] Bunjin is a literary style. The straw of the tree is slightly sloping, slightly twisted, imitating the calligraphy lines, in the branches of the branches only in the upper part of the tree. Containers are small, bright, round, with raised edges.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/bunjin.png
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[3] Chokkan style (formal upright style) - a classic vertically-growing tree style. Strong, straight trunk with a pyramid-shaped coil. This style shape is most commonly used for conifers. If a tree grows in wildlife, it does not catch other trees, does not work strong winds and gets enough water and nutrients, it will grow upright, and its strain will be equal, strong and will have a conical shape, the root system will also be massive. The tree trunk is divided into three equal parts. The lower part of the tree must be without branches so that large roots can be clearly seen. The middle section has three main branches that need to be diverted. The upper part also has three upper small forks, slightly raised to form a thick foliage. The branches of the bonsai tree need not necessarily be symmetrical, but the upper branches of the tree must be shorter and thinner than the lower one, and some of the lower branches may be slightly bent down. The branches and leaves should not be too much, light and air should easily pass through them. In order to avoid breaking the container with the plant, its weights should be similar. The container may be oval, rectangular or square.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Chokkan.png
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[4] Fukinagashi (Windswept) style - a tree growing in the guise of winds Medel is formed and placed in a container in such a way that the stem, branches and roots are oriented in one direction. Looking at the side of this type of bonsai, it looks as if a tree grows constantly exposed to strong winds. This image is shaking and charming, giving the impression that the tree is now being controlled by strong winds. Some masters are able to give the plant a dynamic movement, which further strengthens the feeling of vitality and naturalness. The strain of this tree must be strong, slightly sloping, the branches are shaped so as to grow only to the side to which the strain is inclined. Containers are oval, rectangular.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/fukinagashi.png
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[5] Han - semi - cascade is a style of bonsai in which the trees are formed as cascades. In nature, such trees are found on shores near rivers and other water bodies. Due to lack of water, the trunk of the tree does not grow downwards, but rather in a horizontal direction. Bonsai trees in the tree branches fall just below the top of the container. Containers are round, squared.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/han-kengai.png
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[6] Ishizuke style - trees growing on rocks. Their roots penetrate through the rocky cracks deep into the soil.
In rocky areas, some plants survive just because their roots penetrate rocky cracks and thus provide water and nutrients. Bonsai trees of this type must be regularly and continuously watered. Sometimes, in order to create a suitable environment, the container with the composition should be placed in a container with water. When planting a few trees in rocks, you can create a landscape. The roots of these trees are open to winds and other natural elements, so after some time their color and structure become similar to the trunk. Therefore, this type of bonsai trees becomes an important element of root interbreeding. The roots have to look old.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/ishizuke.png
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[7] Kengai (cascade) style - a tree flowing into the abyss. The tree, rising on the edge of the abyss, can in many cases bend, sloping downward, thus gaining a cascade shape. This shape is shaped by falling stones, snow mass and weight. All of these factors make the tree bend downwards, in other words, the tree grows, rushing to the abyss. Due to this form the trees received the name kengai (cascade). The wooden tower must go below the upper part of the container. This style is quite difficult to keep, since the tree naturally wants to stem up. Containers are round, rectangular.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/kengai.png
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[8] Moyogi (informal upright) style - classic style with a spiral-shaped stem. This style is often found in nature and loved by bonsai growers. The tree trunk has many bends. The lower curvature must be clearly visible. Branches must be grown on the outside of the slope, symmetrically to the right and to the left. They must grow horizontally, slightly inclined. The lower branch must be the strongest and most massive. Gradually rising to the top, the branches should be thinned. This style is best suited for conifers. Containers are rectangular, oval.

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/moyogi.png
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[9] Neagar style - the roots of the trees are raised to the surface and raised even the tree. More suitable for tropical plants.
http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/neagari.png
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[10] The style of the slander trunk is like a tropical tree tied uphill, but the tip itself stems up. When exposed to strong, constant winds, the tree grows curved. This form can also be taken by trees that grow in the shade of other trees. The trunk can be straight or slightly curved. The stem must be tilted at an angle of 70-90 degrees to the container. Branches must be on both sides of the tree. You do not need to be identical with the fukinagh style, where the branches are shaped so that they grow only on the side to which the strain is inclined.

The roots of one tree should be strongly developed as if they were keeping the soil. On the other hand, the tree, on which the strain is tilted, must rotate under the ground. Containers are rectangular, oval.
http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/shakan.png
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[11] Sharimiki style - a light-bodied tree (dead wood).

http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/sharimiki.png
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![1010.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmS3ZvKVZfmnRMrqmH8XwxgBxxJWYmREjM1nrqYw8qxa1d/1010.jpg)
We can not say that one or another size is good or bad. It depends on the personal taste and speed of growth, and the exposure of the region. The first impression is that bonsai are a miniature that is easy to care for and requires a small amount of space to enjoy our daily lives. However, as far as the same tree is concerned, it is not necessary to limit its size, but to prune it in such a way as to reveal its best features.

It is very difficult to classify bonsai size. Here is a basic classification method: 
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Omono Bonsai - Big Bonsai

The maximum size is about 120 cm. Height without a vase, and it is determined whether it can be lifted by one, two or three people.

If it is larger and taller than 120 cm, it is called HACHI-UYE and is displayed in the yard or temporarily displayed in a large building.

CHUMONO BONSAI - medium-sized bonsai

This size can be raised by a medium-sized person and a height from 45cm to 90 cm.

This size is best for exposure and easy to maintain.

KATADE-MOCHI BONSAI - single-handed bonsai

Size from 20 cm. Up to 38 cm. Depending on the style of the tree.

This category does not include trees that climb the rocks.

This is the most popular size among bonsai growers.

KOMONO BONSAI - small bonsai

From 10cm Up to 18 cm. Trees This size is very difficult to grow with all the details so that the miniature tree is as natural. However, some trees such as the guava or the cotoneaster have a small structure suitable for molding small size bonsai.

MAME BONSAI - the smallest bonsai

This is the smallest bonsai that holds 3 or 4 on the palm of your hand. This size is most amazing, but care is very heavy, and it's difficult to form miniature details. This size is still called pocket bonsai.

There is also a microscopic size or the size of the poppy seed called KESHITSUBU. In this case, this is a collection of miniature pots, and the seed is sown directly into the pot to get the best results.
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The Structure Of The Tree: 

A) Roots

The basics of each bunch are its roots. Strong, protruding `Nebari` is an expression of power and gives the tree a stability. The root of the root should begin evenly distributed at the same height around the trunk and still visible on the ground. Unwanted are those roots that are adult crosses, as well as strange or intricate shapes.

B) Stem

From the rugged base to the top, the strain should strike clearly and evenly. To give the observer a tree older than he is actually, the strain or its proportions plays a very important role. Figure: A 3 cm thick and 1 m long trunk looks younger than a 3 cm thick and 10 cm long strain.

C) Branches

In principle, there are four branches that you must always have bonsai. If at least one of these branches is missing, the whole compositional concept seems incomplete.

Greens of the tree's composition are complemented by opaque spaces filling the branches. The composite heights must have a clear structure, and separate layers of foliage of the branches must be separated from each other.

The branches should not be crossed with each other and should be crossed from one side to the other.

They should not start at the same height of the trunk and germinate directly over one another

Still, branches should be as smooth as possible, stretching upwards and expanding to the sides.

The sign of young trees is the branching of the branches into the light.

The branches of the old trees are first to grow downwards so that they can then easily re-orient towards light.

The best option is: when the 1st branch starts on the left or right, the second goes back to the head, and the 3rd grows as a counterweight over the 1st opposite side. The fourth branch passes the nodules before the 2nd branch and here stands the counterweight.

Looking from the top, you see that no branch does not overdo another.

Traditionally, the usual thing was that branches like. The Myog's tree started with exactly the largest bend on the outside.

Of course, these rules do not raise doubts today as optimism, but at present international exhibitions can very often see trees whose foliage is the main branch of the trunk at the height of the curvature, and the branches originate at a completely different point in the trunk.

If we were to search for an "extension" of the frames of this rule, we explained this explanation in primary materials and raw materials.

Many Asian bonsai have been preparing for formulation and assembly for many years or are grown in nurseries and nurseries. In this way, from the beginning, it was possible to influence the growth of the plant and, at the same time, its branches.

Very many bonsai that are born in our time are composed of Yamadori.

Collected plants, which are often very natural in nature, are fantastically formulated, often have only a limited amount of branches that can be used during the composing process. With such raw materials, only very rarely are found exactly the right branches of the trunk position.

D) ICHI-NO-EDA - The main branch

First or lowest, strongest and most important branch (ICHI-NO-EDA). It can be on the right or left but never straight ahead or behind. Her position is responsible for Bonso's dynamics. This is the most protruding branch, it must be about 1/3 to ½ of the height of the tree. It must also be the longest and most durable, and moreover, the most interesting features.

Rear branch (USIHIRO -EDA). It is chosen after choosing the first branch to give the tree a deep, so it should never be the lowest it is formed at the center of the rear part, but slightly to the right or left. The reverse side of this branch must be visible from the front. If the posterior branches are not selected from immediately after the first branch, then the next convenient branch is selected and the posterior branch is made.

Second Branch (NI-NO-EDA). If possible, it should be on the opposite side than the first one. If not, any available branch can be directed in any other direction, but never straight ahead. This branch must be above the first and slightly shorter.

Third Branch (SAN-NO-EDA). It must be on the opposite side than the second one.

Front branch (MAE-EDA). It is above the level of the eye and should never be directed straight ahead. Shape it slightly to the left or right.

The remaining branches. Alternately, shape the remaining branches and run to the top.

Branches: It's always better to first pick up more branches and remove them later, depending on the growth of the lower branches.

E) Apex

The top of the bone should be slightly leaning forward and towards the sash eda.

Going forward in Asia is considered a form of courtesy, and therefore reflected on the tree.

The peak of mature trees is compactly closed, and its interior is not visible.

The wood is stable if its tops are above the base of the tree. If we drop the bifurcation from the highest point of the summit (here only the living part is meant), it should fall straight to the middle of Nebari. This rule applies to vertical shapes, in which the vertex is centered.

All other compositions are subject to the principle that the wreath and the same tip should be clearly distinguished from the middle.

When we cut the height, the branch that replaces the actual top must always be tied to the wire and rotated to the correct position. If the tip is replaced by a short branch, after cutting off a large part of the tree, the lower part must not be larger than the selected vertex.

When choosing a lower branch to the top, do not leave the former strain. Decry it on it do JIN or remove it. The living tip and the JIN must not be of the same height, usually JIN is at the front and slightly to the right or left and either longer or shorter.

You do not need to create two or more vertices on one tree. Do not mess it with a broom (Hokidachi).

F) BLOGS

If the defects listed can not be corrected by binding the wire, they must be completely removed

1) No apex (SHINNASHI) - No tops

2) Stubbed branch (SHINKIRE-EDA) - broken branch

3) Reversed growth branch (GYAKU BOSORI-EDA) - branch of reverse growth

4) Ingrowing branch (GYAKU-EDA) is an inward-growing branch

5) Parallel branch (KASANE-EDA) - Parallel branch

6) Bar branch (KANNUKI-EDA) - a branch of a rod form

7) Pocket branch (FUTOKORO-EDA- pocket branch

8) Wheel-spoke branch (KURUMA-EDA) - wheel spin gear

9) Trunk crossing branch (MIKI KIRI-EDA) - Branch crossing the trunk

10) Crossed branch (KOSA-EDA) - crossed branch

11) "Y" shaped branch (FUTAMATA-EDA) - "Y" shaped branch

12)  Half Circle Branch (HAN-EN-EDA) - Semi-Branch Branch

13)  "U" shaped branch (KAERUMATA-EDA) - "U" shaped branch

14) Elbow branch (HIJI TSUKI-EDA) - crank branch

15) Upgrowth branch (TACHI-EDA) - a bore-growing branch

16) Dangling branch (SAGARI-EDA) - a branch of the branch

17) Tangled branch (KARAMI-EDA) - an interconnected branch

18) Eye poking branch (METSUKI-EDA) - an eye-catching branch

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![1010.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmS3ZvKVZfmnRMrqmH8XwxgBxxJWYmREjM1nrqYw8qxa1d/1010.jpg)
GREEN CRAFT RULES

Bonsai symmetry is a repetition of the same shape and size, that is, from a certain point - to the left or to the right, to the top or the bottom, everything is of the same shape and size. It's a very childish approach and does not require a bonsai artist's imagination. However, it is easier for a beginner to start from a symmetrical shape, for example, a square, a circle, an equilateral triangle, and gradually go to more complex aesthetic compositions.

Balancing means more weight unification. Balancing bonsai is a feeling of unity, even if the right side is different from the left.

Proportion is the coefficient or coefficients that are one of the most important elements in the creation of bonsai. To get the right proportions, the method is "Gold dividing section.

![auskinis-pjuvis1.png](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbHB4AwzPQtrHbgf8ZQBmF7eehL5JSAA3M6xjgkpEjYsP/auskinis-pjuvis1.png)

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![1010.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmS3ZvKVZfmnRMrqmH8XwxgBxxJWYmREjM1nrqYw8qxa1d/1010.jpg)
SUBSTANCE

Wire - Aids in composing a bonsai tree

One of the main tools for bonsai formation is the use of wires by wrapping straw and branches, a specially designed wire. Only with the help of wire can we change the branch growth direction. Almost no tree is used to compose it without the means of giving this form.

This composite meets the natural process. When the first snow falls and falls on the branches of the trees, he slips down the branches and forms the tree in the same natural way.

It takes many months for different regions to melt over the snow.

When observing such trees, one can notice that the branches are no longer returning to their original position, which grew even before winter.

This process is repeated annually.

Consequently, in older coniferous trees, the growth of branches is noticeable, while the growth of young trees grows up to light.

This does not apply to foliage. Due to the lack of branches in the wood and due to their reduced flexibility, they drop the leaves from their branches, even before the winter starts, so that they do not break the snow.

Why is wood wire technology a very important factor in the formation of bonsai?

The right wire is wrapped in a forming tree, does not suffer from stress and its bark is not damaged.

The excessively tangled wire may curl or damage the valuable bark of old trees.

A well wrapped wire does not touch the eyes and does not damage the overall impression given by the tree.

Wire types

For bonsai formation only specially prepared aluminum and copper wires, which must be of different thickness, are suitable. It's a pity to get such a wire practically impossible in Lithuania. It is imported from Japan, Korea, etc. Countries.

Iron, aluminum and copper wires that are not designed for bonsai formation are not suitable and can not be used because they are too hard and the tree can damage the bark.

Wires

Among bonsai professionals, copper wire is the best and it is the most widely used, because it is stronger and we can use a thinner wire than aluminum to form a branch for the same thickness.

For beginners, bonsai lovers are advised to use aluminum wire because it is more flexible and work better with it. When making a mistake in winding the tree, the aluminum wire can be wrapped and rewound, which can not be done with copper wire.

Wire of different diameter. Different diameter branches require a different diameter wire. The most commonly used wire sizes are: 0.5, 0.8, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5.4.4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6, 8.10mm

Wire strapping

First, select the wire of the right size according to the branch you are joining. The length of the wand must be about 1/3 of the size of the branch or trunk. Measure the length of the binding branch or the trunk and add 1/3 of the length before cutting. Always start knuckling from the trunk, then thread all the Main branches and only then the secondary or lower branches.

Always drive forward, not sideways or backwards. In other words, stand up against the branch that you tied and tucked forward. This will not break the leaves or branches that can fall under the wire.
http://bonsai.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/vielavimas.png
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 SELECTION OF BONSAI BASON

Never roll over before forming. After the formation can be planted directly into a bonsai pot or a temporary growth vessel. It is very important to choose the right bonsai pot. Remember that the pot must be selected for a formed tree. Do not choose a pot before, and do not create a tree under it.

Cut the roots according to the size and shape of the pot. Most often, vertically growing roots need to be clipped shortly or folded to all sides from the trunk. The roots that grow directly toward the trunk base need to be cut back or straightened. Form the whole root system similar to the inverted bowl.

For most trees, acceptable colors are brown, gray, or reddish brown. Orange plants are best suited for unpolluted flower pots. Glazurizing is commonly used for leafing trees.

Proportion between wood and vase

The shape of a vase - The shape of a vase must be in line with the style, shape or type of the wood.

Cascaded style pot

In general, the flower pot for cascading plants should be deep or tall. Sometimes you can use a medium-deep bowl, but never pour this type of tree into a shallow pot. The height of the tree from the tops to the lowest point and the height of the vessel must not be the same. It is allowed that the tree's heights are lower than the vase, because when using a high stand, the tree is high enough. The hinged branches of the tree should not touch the table on which it stands.

When choosing a double-stem, double tree, stem, support and group of plants for a pot, select a long, shallow pot. The proportion between the highest tree and the length of the vase must be taken into account. The length of the vase must be about 1/3 or less than the length of the highest tree. Sometimes the length of the dish can be much higher to create a grass or outdoor effect. When we have several stubble styles, the length of the pot must be about 2/3 of the height of the highest tree.

BUNJIN style can be very small, round and shallow to emphasize the tree. Ideal for handmade folk pottery, if not too glamorous. It must be SHIBUI.

Most leaf-bearing trees or broad-leafed evergreens can be planted in a glazed pot. Select the color according to the color of leaves, flowers, fruits, berries, seeds. Pastel colors are better for spring blossoms, and dark colors - for those who have a beautiful foliage in the autumn. Ancient glazed pots (Korean, Chinese, Japanese) can also be used for conifers, and leaves for bonsai.

It is also allowed to use unglazed pinks for leaf throwing trees. Some leafy bonsai need to be planted in a larger and deeper pot because it is necessary to take into account the root condition.

Bonsaialima plant not in the pot, but in the rocks. But do not confuse it with the style of "ISHIZUKE" or rock-climbing plants. This style will be delivered later. The stone that replaces the pot must have the following elements:

1. Have a solid, rough surface, not too smooth and fragile.

2. The color must complement the plant, not hide it. Dark colors - brown, dark red or gray - are more suitable than chalky white or limestone.

3. The shape and size do not shade the tree. The most popular form is oblong or ship shape (FUNTA-GATA). Do not use symmetrical shapes - round, square or triangular, which are deep and thick.

4. The size, length, width and depth must be the same as the vase.

We do not recommend using flower pots or flower pots if they point out the tree. Suitable for a deep flower pot with calligraphy, whose subtle lines combine with cascade lines.

How to choose forwards in round, square, hexagonal or other equilateral pots

It is right to put one or two container feet in front. The square wave is usually the front of the plane, but you can also use the angle. In a deeper square vazone, a plane or an angle is chosen for the front. In a non-circular hexagon head, the front can be any of the six sides. The angle of the right hexagon head is selected at the front.


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Thanks for this time:) 
Regards, @allabout