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A Stone Forest in Yunnan / Ein Steinwald in Yunnan by bossel

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hive-163772 · @bossel ·
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A Stone Forest in Yunnan / Ein Steinwald in Yunnan
After we finished the visit in [Gyalthang](https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-ganden-sumtseling-monastery-kloster), we went back to Kunming by night coach. From there we then took the train to Canton (Guangzhou). Most of the pictures today were taken from the train. Luckily, it was for once a train with fairly clean windows, but some photos will show reflections, nevertheless. | Nach unserem Besuch in [Gyalthang](https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-ganden-sumtseling-monastery-kloster) fuhren wir mit dem Nachtbus zurück nach Kunming. Dort nahmen wir den Zug nach Kanton (Guangzhou). Die meisten der heutigen Bilder wurden vom Zug aus aufgenommen. Zum Glück hatte dieser Zug ausnahmsweise recht saubere Fenster, trotzdem ist mit Reflexionen zu rechnen.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmYNk8kgRk7i9E3p8HbfGrKgz3jCNpEy2Th4ZBdL2TXovz/dsc05954_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

The bus from Gyalthang to Kunming takes up to 12 hours, with 1 or 2 stops to relieve yourself. Our coach made a single stop, roughly midway. Since I felt a certain urge, I wanted to use the toilet. But, well, it was a typical Chinese highway restroom. When I first went in, I backed out again after 1 or 2 steps. The stench was just too bad. But it really felt quite urgent by then. So, I tried again. This time I got a little further, I could actually see the toilets. They were the usual holes in the ground, with 20cm-high dividers between them. & when I saw how dirty it was - even shit was lying around the holes - I hurried out again. I decided that my urge was not that urgent after all & kept it in me till we reached our hotel. Goes to show how flexible a human bladder really is. | Der Bus von Gyalthang nach Kunming braucht über 12 Stunden, mit 1 oder 2 Toilettenpausen. Unser Bus machte nur eine Pause auf halbem Weg. Da es etwas drängte, wollte ich auf's WC. Aber, nunja, es war eine typisch chinesische Autobahntoilette. Beim 1. Versuch ging ich rückwärts wieder raus, da der Gestank einfach unerträglich war. Ich hatte jedoch einen echten Drang. Also versuchte ich es nochmal. Diesmal kam ich bis an die eigentlichen Toiletten, die üblichen Löcher mit 20cm hohen Trennwänden. Als ich den Dreck - sogar Scheiße lag offen herum - sah, hatte ich aber genug. Ich entschied, daß es wohl doch nicht so sehr drängte & hielt an mich, bis wir das Hotel erreichten. Zeigt schön, wie flexibel die Blase sein kann.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmakKYd9jWyRCHwX5aC6bKAVGVVCwT9EnoJTEfdLQDiRiu/dsc05919_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


In Kunming (a very South-East Asian city, somehow), we stayed only one more day. Luckily. Kunming is (or was) a city of pickpockets. On my way to Gyalthang, I lost a cell phone. This time, they got my compact camera. Which is why there are not that many photos from the last day in Gyalthang & almost nothing from Kunming. Someone even tried to steal my rather big bridge camera, while I was busy keeping another pickpocket away from my girlfriend. If you ever go to Kunming, be careful. | In Kunming (irgendwie sehr südostasiatisch) blieben wir nur einen weiteren Tag. Zum Glück. Kunming ist (oder war) eine Stadt der Taschendiebe. Auf dem Weg nach Gyalthang verlor ich ein Handy. Diesmal klauten sie meine Kompaktkamera. Weshalb vom letzten Tag in Gyalthang nur wenige & aus Kunming fast keine Bilder habe. Es gab sogar den Versuch, meine relativ große Bridgekamera zu stehlen, während ich damit beschäftigt war, einen anderen Dieb von meiner Freundin fernzuhalten. Vorsicht bei Kunmingbesuchen!
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Some of the few pictures from Kunming. A nice little temple with interesting roof charms. Some other roof ornaments, which I had not seen much before I went to Yunnan: | Einige der wenigen Aufnahmen aus Kunming. Ein netter kleiner Tempel mit interessanten Dachfiguren. Ein paar andere Dachverzierungen, die ich vor Yunnan eher selten gesehen hatte:
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmbB8PVUeZgzLJa6wkP7yw5Vdj5C7MgW3NCS5bXG3bbL2n/dsc05925_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmbcyNGCYgSwwkUFE6iUsUoQEn79KqyULaFZqLdwPJbaYD/dsc05926_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


Solar water heaters & even solar electricity panels. Nowadays, you find them almost everywhere, but back then - at least to me - they were a novelty. | Solarpanele & Solarwasserheizer. Heutzutage sieht man die fast überall, aber damals waren sie für mich eine Neuheit.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmReGAV5vNDPg5ibgcwkcB7p43CnAm5fJBXpa97L34u72f/dsc05929_60p_80_shvswa.jpg)


The train we took from Kunming to Canton was a slow train, but I don't remember whether it was K- or T-class. It took a whole day to cover the distance. But there is quite some nice landscape to enjoy on the way. Nowadays, there is [only 1 K-train per day](https://www.travelchinaguide.com/china-trains/), all other trains are high-speed. Don't know whether you get the same experience with the bullet trains. | Der Zug von Kunming nach Kanton war ein langsamer K- oder T-Zug (kann mich nicht genau erinnern). Er brauchte mehr als einen Tag für die Strecke. Aber es gibt unterwegs einiges an toller Landschaft zu genießen. Heutzutage gibt es nur noch [1 K-Zug pro Tag](https://www.travelchinaguide.com/china-trains/), alle anderen sind Hochgeschwindigkeitszüge. Weiß nicht, ob da die Aussicht auch so gut ist.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmfFmo2mGFEXt63RvrJXvDxdKpUfgF5qJYzcSvMb8Vvo1P/screenshot_20221129_205538.png)


![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmRkXzL9buZoCJVCTJETvgcdZRcu5fhWN9Nwv8Ptctr327/dsc05930_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


The tombs in the hills to the east of Kunming have a quite distinct shape. At the end of the article you will find a photo with a bit more detail. | Die Grüfte in den Hügeln östlich von Kunming haben einen sehr eigenen Stil. Am Ende dieses Beitrags ist ein etwas detaillierteres Foto.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmd2cf6cLNcFUtgRdRXuoma7HVxGjbYuonnJ7gCvrze1dG/dsc05931_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


Pretty soon, the 1st signs of the stone forests can be seen. They are just a few dozen kilometres from Kunming. Sadly, the train we took doesn't seem to be running anymore. So, I'm not sure, which of the stone forests we saw. My guess is that it was the [Underground Stone Forest](https://www.google.de/maps/place/Underground+Stone+Forest/@24.8467526,103.2763179,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xdaa809d15ce95c4!8m2!3d24.848409!4d103.2948887) (地下石林, Dìxià shílín) or something nearby.  | Schon recht bald kann man die ersten Zeichen der Steinwälder sehen. Sie befinden sich nur einige dutzend Kilometer von Kunming. Leider gibt es die Zugverbindung, die wir nahmen, nicht mehr. Daher bin ich mir nicht sicher, welchen Steinwald wir sahen. Vermutlich war es der [Unterirdische Steinwald](https://www.google.de/maps/place/Underground+Stone+Forest/@24.8467526,103.2763179,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xdaa809d15ce95c4!8m2!3d24.848409!4d103.2948887) (地下石林, Dìxià shílín) oder etwas in dessen Nähe.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmWNxQdDowUveQfXGDV2gg9C5AwRt2qX8Qjeb91Bdh6i2Y/dsc05934_2800_80_vsshko.jpg)


Interesting to me is that the ground is reddish-brown, in contrast to the grey rocks. You would guess that much of the ground is made up of eroded rocks, but obviously not so much. Well, I don't know actually. But the limestone, which the [stone forests are made up of](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_Forest) must have gone somewhere. | Interessant, daß der Boden rotbraun ist, im Kontrast zu den grauen Felsen. Man sollte meinen, daß der Boden aus erodiertem Fels besteht, aber anscheinend ist dem nicht so. Naja, ehrlich gesagt, keine Ahnung. Aber der Kalkstein, aus dem die Steinwälder bestehen, muß ja irgendwohin.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmQAunBDZaPjQL6TQrD6JGDjbz8XJVoJS17mBirGWwmwbK/dsc05936_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


A rocky hill. When you see that you wonder why the Chinese call that stone forest. But the photo below makes it a bit clearer: | Ein felsiger Hügel. Wenn man das sieht, wundert man sich, warum die Chinesen das Steinwald nennen. Das nächste Foto klärt die Sache:
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmRa1qDqoZQX9iaytMAmNMo6rvfo44GsT6nSsgbYsVTjVW/dsc05937_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


This also shows, that for the local farmers, these stone trees are just part of the landscape. That also the reason why I think, we didn't see part of the  [UNESCO World Heritage Site](https://en.unesco.org/global-geoparks/shilin), but only some outliers. | Dies zeigt auch, daß diese Steinbäume für die dortigen Bauern nur Teil der Landschaft sind. Das ist auch ein Grund, warum ich denke, daß wir nicht einen Teil des [UNESCO Welterbes](https://en.unesco.org/global-geoparks/shilin) sahen, sondern nur einige Ausläufer.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmXQMGy9H6jQ9LyiRSPSjAJ8eEWECoRPsZdEUXAnDcDPQ3/dsc05939_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

Still, very interesting landscape, particularly when the train goes right through one of those 'forests'. | Auf jeden Fall eine sehr interessante Landschaft, besonders wenn der Zug direkt durch einen solchen Wald fährt.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmTBDyNhpCywAeCDjNCj3FGKeEXJZaFwbZDu2HxY8fmvHZ/dsc05940_2000_80.vsshko.jpg)


According to Wikipedia, the stone forests are from limestone, dolomite or dolomitic limestone, depending on which the colour is lighter or darker grey. The ones you see here seem to be mostly limestone.  | Laut Wikipedia bestehen die Steinwälder aus Kalkstein, Dolomit oder dolomitischem Kalkstein, wovon abhängt, wie dunkel das Grau der Felsen ist. Die man hier sieht, scheinen aus Kalkstein zu bestehen.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmWbwNXBq2MprrUNikN2BMptKajUsrU4oaewBJD9zxsgrN/dsc05946_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmW9epguQuFJ67BtEH1X1w3uhpGW89xWYPNSuobZKgr3qJ/dsc05947_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


A bit later, the landscape turned way hillier, with the famous [terrace agriculture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrace_(earthworks)). This kind of agriculture doesn't usually make you rich, so the farmers back then were still using ox-carts. | Etwas später wurde die Landschaft hügeliger, mit dem berühmten [Terrassenfeldbau](https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrasse_(Gel%C3%A4ndeform)). Diese Art des Landbaus macht nur selten reich, daher sah man dort noch Ochsenkarren.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmb9xavCj4P9faFrTXD31gRtjUq9sLx7tBGwUrqAkHzb6x/dsc05948_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


But the landscape just looks great. & you can understand why poor farmers turn to tourism as a source of income. | Aber die Landschaft ist einfach toll. & man versteht, warum arme Bauern sich dem Tourismus als Einnahmequelle zuwenden.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmdyCQcd25TYVFje1TpsXcA2gc6q8CUNaFd58DLFWpx3UV/dsc05950_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmS6kYPRcLaiCT4wLZXgHm4v8VMHgkEd1pSeDkw4ZGp5dx/dsc05950_1500_80_vsshko.jpg)


Interesting little bridge. I wonder whether that was a communal building project or whether a farmer built it himself. | Interessante kleine Brücke. Frage mich, ob das ein kommunales Projekt war oder ob ein Bauer sie errichtete.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmR8VbEri46mkUULxjEj5H6GGM9uzaZPCKnCReoi8YY9Vo/dsc05953_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


Not a great photo, but the only one where you can see our train. Not to forget that wonderful (if poor) village in the hills. | Kein großartiges Foto, aber das einzige, das unseren Zug zeigt. & natürlich dieses herrliche (wenn auch arme) Dorf in den Hügeln.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmdvquHxJtbNeydeH9VxLCgHc7qTstAjXwuryCZJMP4g7B/dsc05956_60p_80_shvswa.jpg)


A kiln? Note also the buffalo herd at the foot of the hill. | Ein Ziegelofen? Man beachte auch die Büffelherde am Fuß des Hügels.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmeEEyiBn8BMXKDzf7ewwPjPL1BBEusjwcwmSvZ72tsr28/dsc05960_60p_80_shvswa.jpg)


I love this landscape. This trip made Yunnan, beside Canton, for me a place to settle down in. Back in 2008 I was still considering to buy a little home in the Chinese countryside. But emperor Xi's ascent made an end to such dreams. | Ich liebe diese Landschaft. Diese Reise macht Yunnan, neben Kanton, zu einem Ort, wo ich mich niederlassen wollte. 2008 überlegte ich noch, dort ein Häuschen auf dem Land zu kaufen. Aber Kaiser Xis Machtergreifung hat solchen Träumen ein Ende gemacht.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmTQFBiYQoSLAEfTQiedgrdo81gLYZBiNZVSBJhrsszLSa/dsc05962_60p_80_shvswa.jpg)


Damned be emperor Xi! | Verdammt sei Kaiser Xi!
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmR5jFFBJkJb7x3kjbqeyinhyfvjvtTzGHkomqar7ZG1Mx/dsc05963_2000_80_vsshwa.jpg)


This is the mentioned Kunming style of tomb. Very interesting with these little pillars. Sadly, I haven't been able to get close to one of these tombs. | Die bereits erwähnte Gruft im Kunmingstil. Sehr interessant, mit diesen kleinen Säulen. Leider habe ich nie eine dieser Grüfte aus der Nähe gesehen.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmQtYNPQ2Z4hdmKxyZQMURHQ3YpomxN5WhgjxRcxQb3n87/img_0001.jpg)


Back in Canton City, I was invited to a farewell dinner. To be honest, I only know that I was invited because I would have never ordered this stuff on my own. Not because of the taste, though. Everything you see here tastes great, but I hate fishbones & I hate even more having to crack open a crab's shell to get at the meat. Chicken feet are nice, though, but not for dinner. They are perfect as snacks while watching sports. | In Kanton wurde ich schließlich noch zu einem Abschiedsessen eingeladen. Was ich nur weiß, weil ich dieses Zeug niemals für mich selber bestellt hätte. Allerdings nicht wegen des Geschmacks. Alles, was man hier sieht, ist lecker. Aber ich hasse Fischgräten & ich hasse es noch mehr, eine Krabbe aufbrechen zu müssen, um ans Fleisch zu kommen. Hühnerfüße schmecken auch, aber nicht zur Hauptmahlzeit. Sie sind perfekt als Snack, wenn man Sport guckt.
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmb13fDWcsV6PCCeTHV5qPowMba8KGEtfkva2MgtwAXVU7/img_0002.jpg)


& that was the trip to Yunnan (all links at the end). After that I went back to Germany for a few weeks, before I got another job in China. But more about that next time. For now, just a few more pics: | & das war die Reise nach Yunnan (alle Links am Ende). Danach flog ich für ein paar Wochen nach Deutschland, bevor ich einen neuen Job in China fand. Mehr dazu beim nächsten Mal. Jetzt nur noch ein paar Bilder:
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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmPvBYGiwo7eRF58Yp944YZenkr3UT9MdnzMoxXqGNEDUH/dsc05924_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)

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![](https://images.ecency.com/DQmYVXRgL9YPHvPef74myzLo6jCx7LvkovipQHSfF9Jc3Ai/dsc05959_60p_80_shvsko.jpg)


https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-day-1-1-tag

https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-day-2-golden-temple

https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-day-2-walks-2

https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-day-3-more-walks

https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@bossel/gyalthang-ganden-sumtseling-monastery-kloster


[//]:# (!pinmapple 24.84897 lat 103.29482 long Underground Stone Forest, Yunnan d3scr)
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permlinka-stone-forest-in-yunnan
categoryhive-163772
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vote details (353)
@alotutan ·
$0.04
When I looked at the pictures you shared, I saw that the places where the old buildings are located are much more beautiful than the cities. Everything was better in the old days
👍  
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vote details (1)
@bossel · 
Oh, I don't know whether everything was better in the old days. The architecture was nicer, but life sucked for most people as well. Just like nowadays.
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@hivebuzz ·
$0.05
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vote details (1)
@hivebuzz ·
$0.04
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vote details (1)
@kebula ·
$0.05
The stone forest looks out of this world!
👍  
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vote details (1)
@bossel · 
Well, at the moment, China is virtually on a different planet, thanks to zero-Covid.
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@livinguktaiwan ·
$0.06
As a country, China is so vast and I'm sure has plenty of beautiful places to visit if it hasn't been trashed by commercialisation and modernisation yet, but sadly I have no desire to set foot in the land under the current regime.
👍  
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vote details (1)
@bossel · (edited)
Understandable.
But in the noughties, at least for European foreigners, it didn't feel so bad. People were mostly nice, food was great, & if you were not overly & overtly political, you could live very well. The situation started to change around the time of the 2008 Olympics & with emperor Xi, repression accelerated.
Even if I wanted to, now I can't really go to China, because I have been a bit too critical (mostly anonymously online, but I'm under no illusion of actual anonymity there). 

Edit: I would like to go to Taiwan, actually, but finding a job there as a German teacher doesn't seem possible with my qualifications.
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@livinguktaiwan ·
$0.05
Not sure about the demand for German teachers in Taiwan, but never say never!!!  Just need to get the timing right.

What about teaching English? Getting a TEFL or CELTA is not that difficult especially if you've taught before.  And whilst native English speakers are preferred, non native English speaking teachers aren't that uncommon as there are so many private tutorial schools there.
👍  
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@pinmapple ·
$0.05
<b>Congratulations, your post has been added to <a href="https://pinmapple.com">Pinmapple</a>! 🎉🥳🍍</b><br/><br>Did you know you have <b><a href="https://pinmapple.com/@bossel" target="_blank">your own profile map</a></b>?<br>And every <b><a href="https://pinmapple.com?post=a-stone-forest-in-yunnan" target="_blank">post has their own map</a></b> too!<br/><br/><b>Want to have your post on the map too?</b><br/><ul><li>Go to <b><a href="https://www.pinmapple.com">Pinmapple</a></b></li><li>Click the <b>get code</b> button</li><li>Click on the map where your post should be (zoom in if needed)</li><li>Copy and paste the generated code in your post (Hive only)</li><li>Congrats, your post is now on the map!</li></ul><a href="https://peakd.com/@pinmapple" target="_blank"><img src="https://pinmapple.com/IMG/smallestfineapple.png"/></a>
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@pinmapple ·
$0.05
Hiya, @LivingUKTaiwan here, just swinging by to let you know that this post made it into our Honorable Mentions in [Daily Travel Digest #1714](https://peakd.com/hive-163772/@pinmapple/travel-digest-1714).<br><br>Your post has been manually curated by the @pinmapple team. If you like what we're doing, please drop by to check out all the rest of today's great posts and consider supporting other authors like yourself and us so we can keep the project going!<br><br><b>Become part of our travel community:</b><ul><li><a href='https://discord.gg/EGtBvSM'>Join our Discord</a></li><li><a href='https://haveyoubeenhere.com'>Learn more about our travel application</a></li></ul>
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@bossel · 
Thank you very much!
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@qurator ·
$0.05
Qurator
<center>Manually curated by ackhoo from the @qurator Team. Keep up the good work!</center>
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vote details (1)
@wittyzell ·
$0.05
So nice view from the train ride. 
The restroom experience was ugh, not that pleasant but very relatable. I have experienced something that like a lot of times. Hate the smell.
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