![reflect.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZdewPDYSAzmgRssGCWuxZab2uKvLiZaPEtCkBKhQjXpj/reflect.jpg)

I am not a mountaineer, but I am fascinated by its sheer power. I remember swinging in a hammock on an Australian farm reading Eric Newby's 'A Short Walk In The Hindu Kush' and thinking to myself; at some point I have to make the time and effort to go trekking in Asia and I should do it with Leonard.

![lookout.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbztMhqiiesdMhzY7JYRDSBUcXJ5rocoHL2uyYUyRjG8L/lookout.jpg)
(Leonard and Yatin scope out a suitable route).

At the time I was living in Pune, India with my wife who was working as a dance teacher there. We solicited the charitable help of Yatin, a climber based in Mumbai who had explored the Western Ghats hundreds of times. He was to be our guide. Within an hours walking he was less a guide and just a good mate.

![yatin.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTMqTGBnRkymw27qwRsZWbsanYtrdkWBQsYFn5jxJh7S5/yatin.jpg)
(Portrait of Yatin).

It wasn't long before Yatin pointed out some sinister marks on a tree. Fresh Leopard scratchings, something to make the hair on our necks stand up. We were being watched. Another tree showed older marks which told us, we don't belong here and we should pass quietly like the visitors we ought to be.

![leopard fresh.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmeJtWSiHYWrxdBU2GqdFtsBc1zjQfgDXYrKqcHwkG25Nz/leopard%20fresh.jpg)
![leopard old.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTtv6NJD8r9mineYbHG2g5dZNpbD3z8d5krj5GXpxKLH5/leopard%20old.jpg)

The destination was  Harishchandreshwar temple and Kedareshwar Temple, dating to the 6th Century. They lie ruined at the top of the mountain alongside a camp where we would be setting up base. One more ridge and there it was, scattered across a dried plain, with a few faded flags depleted by the calm air.

![temple.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQrbZPeNq8F5Ka6cnbWCnP7bbGNyyXKiJzUiF52ShGUse/temple.jpg)
( Harishchandreshwar temple seem from above).

From an elevated distance, the complex was under whelming, it was only when you got close it's true ancient beauty shined and it became apparent there was life here after all, not just the elusive big cats. Mountains are quiet places, all I can hear is it's violent breathe and the soft rumbling of the major organs.

![temple dog.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZdzcNLwaKdqGijU6WZgGjgf6HvWMAu5osmh4NgCPiV4r/temple%20dog.jpg).
(Resident dog at  Harishchandreshwar temple).

![temple boy.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmX1qYRaighdtjtzSB9dz72WvhpwfYoAR6HHr6zDN4X5Hs/temple%20boy.jpg)
(Young orphaned boy who sleeps in  Harishchandreshwar temple and assists the many Sherpas that operate in the mountains).

We took a traditional bath in the flooded Kedareshwar Temple, the flooded chamber is a small staircase into rock, the water was icy cold but somewhat a refreshing escape from the exhausting heat outside.

![I Am Spartan.png](https://steemitimages.com/DQmX9iyh46RvM7U9CC7cmMFw7mcb4CjbfeLxm8CHoQANd3Y/I%20Am%20Spartan.png)
(Leon takes a bath in Kedareshwar temple).

We made way to meet a Nomadic man who lives on the mountain, he was to be our host and guide for the next few days.

![host1.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmSP9UG18apGoidRLun2cE78g2zaebCXnUirJoxuvNiqGf/host1.jpg)
(Nilan tends to his home made clay oven).

Our host Nilan was one of best cooks I've ever had the pleasure of eating with. Somehow, in his modest bamboo hut he produced unbelievable curries and fluffy chapattis, rich sweet chai and succulent smashed rice. He spoke no English but through Yatin we managed to communicate a few thoughts, eventually falling into a debate on politics. As men do.

![cabin.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfZLnveq4yGeTuTC2a9a8qEi7QtpfCLyD3DUYofsKnKbn/cabin.jpg)
(Leon fills out his journal after a hard climb).

As Leonard and Yatin sat back to fill in their journals I walked to the mountains edge to get a shot of the sun setting over the Western Ghats. When it was finally gone I took a 10 minute exposure shot of the landscape below to see what human light I could pick up.

![Range Facebook.png](https://steemitimages.com/DQmc94gn63baicCGXoeJCiBCZ6ZESpgvBohwzNtem6irJ8G/Range%20Facebook.png)
(Sunset over the Western Ghat).

![night.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPFjzMN4za7UZWJPVsoCe1VJEG5CedaALt76x9rdddDMZ/night.jpg)
(10 minute exposer shot of the range at night, note the mountain road to the left, frequented by truckers, you can see the road lite by the headlights of trucks).

The next morning we set off for the summit, accompanied by Nilan and two wild dogs that hung around his lodgings.

![happy dogs.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbZJygXCLWdaFFr757NWfti3gia9ZzrvKHxabav3Wqr5q/happy%20dogs.jpg)
(Two dogs who joined us for most of our trip).

First task was to collect drinking water from a safe depository in the mountainside. Nilan knew the best ones.

![watering hole.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXXJgVjGJZF8TPbshzRbtbwtpBzVQuomT5TRkFQTERsWX/watering%20hole.jpg)
(One of the few safe watering holes).

A geological hot spot caught Leonards attention which gave me 30 minutes to get some macro photography done whilst he trailed the area for crystals. Could find much, besides a single Robber Fly, which turned out to be one of best macro shots to date, a dead frog being lifted by some ants a couple of flies and a moth.

![robber fly.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdN2FxEeAVjRWTmAAd2oaXhrCWYSMVxhJ67va5MTiPWjJ/robber%20fly.jpg)

![fly.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfPeR372rj2Nz6pmATmhzR6zpV1x6qSFFY1692BtimeUa/fly.jpg)
(Two flies having a casual shag on the hillside).

![frog.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXiQMrnipLUU3jXXsttFsaF5muE2MNXqvNosmgv4zsiSg/frog.jpg)
(Morbid but somewhat beautiful, I like how life works).

![moth.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcEqpX1yxbm27dpQas3yFZB2gsy2d9DBPS2XVm1p3gqMy/moth.jpg)

When we finally reached the top, we learned the sad reality of modern India. The top of  Harishchandreshwar dropped thousands of feet below into a remote mountainside forest and was frequented by many Indians a year with the intention of committing suicide. We found this heart breaking messaged painted on the rocks at the edge of the cliff.

![helpline.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmUSheo5x8u64YnNANTqN24STvVEniiruUJ6cE7MS3iyi8/helpline.jpg)
(Suicide helpline on the edge).

Nilan examines Leonards climbing stick and sniggers to himself. It is all very unneccesary he proclaims to Yatin in Mharati.

![walking stick.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmddjS1XuR4wY2yLCuUYEDXAnQc6QCzvemBp6pJQr5c6GA/walking%20stick.jpg)

On our last night I take one last image of my three companions on the edge discussion life and the infinite distance between all three of their realities, but in the end we are all human and mountains bring that out of us more than anything.

![sunset lookout.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQRNZUMjiHoQiDkt7bKrsjVEFAcwRRv4DA4Eh2icyXJmP/sunset%20lookout.jpg)

I hope you enjoyed, throw me a comment or a question and i'll be sure to reply.

Until tomorrow,
Cotton Lazarus
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