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How Are You Rolling Your Character? by makerhacks

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· @makerhacks ·
$46.26
How Are You Rolling Your Character?
![ability scores.png](https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/makerhacks/23tv6fLTmqmtSsQmNvg5NkQfkQsshh49GbgeyuWi9oaiwCHVpe3bo3HFc6ekHYTcLapsG.png)


## How do you like to roll new characters?

I've been programming a character creation tool as part of a tutorial I am writing for one of my blogs, and it dawned on me that over the years I have tried most of the techniques for character ability score stats out there, but never been all that loyal to any one of them.

![Screen Shot 2021-12-08 at 10.31.24 AM.png](https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/makerhacks/23t78uNBRpqtzXRtWx8RX45SjnDdNxaLDitLG5fKRkruapyTMz3yNJ1sdxJY9GU53frjk.png)

Each approach will have its own pros and cons, of course, but also I have the feeling that people lean toward some methods because they have the highest potential for powerful characters.

Let's take a look at the approaches that I know about and discuss each.

## 1D20

The one roll of a D20 option is the Russian roulette of ability scores, and is rare due to the downside and also because the upside can just be plainly banned from tables. 

Yes, it could give you a 20, but it could also give you a 1. 

While only a few people will want to play a character that is so far below average, they do exist!

## 3D6

Traditionalists will insist that anything else is fudging. To remove any chance of optimization, not only will the player have to roll simple 3D6 for each stat, but they must do them in the order of the character sheet, and the numbers rolled are the numbers they get.

This means your character has a chance of a low stat of 3, and on the other end of the scale, that if your Wizard is super buff or your Barbarian has super high intelligence, so be it.

## 6+2D6

If you want to guarantee a nice baseline of stats then the approach to go for is this one.

The minimum your character can roll is 8, and the maximum is 18.

This does mean that your characters will be *at least* fairly average which a lot of people find less fun than having characters overcome serious flaws.

Your mileage may vary.

## 4D6, Drop the Lowest

To enable your players to have a better chance of a character they will enjoy, you can allow them an extra roll and only keep the top 3. Of course, there is still a chance, no matter how slim, your character still ends up with an ability of 3.

It is also more generous to roll the numbers and then allocate them afterwards if you want to be really friendly.

## Standard Array

While we are on the topic of allowing the player to allocate the numbers, you can do away with rolling altogether and instead use the pre-rolled "*Standard Array*".

The array in D&D 5E is made up of 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15.

You get to put the numbers where you want until all the slots are filled.

I quite like this approach and probably the one I come back to most, it gives a decently distributed set of abilities and involves no math!

## The Point Buy

This is the math-heavy option, which is why I don't like it!

Wargamers are used to building "lists" according to point values.

The idea is you are allowed to "spend" points up to a limit, with the associated strategies behind maxing out where you most need to buff.

In roleplaying games this commonly comes down to either:
1. All abilities are determined from a point pool.
1. All abilities start at a baseline and you can add from a point pool.

D&D tends to go with the second option. Every ability starts at 8 and then you get to distribute 27 additional points.

Your GM might decide even with the baseline option, that a score has a minimum or maximum - for example, you can not reduce from 8 and allocate the point elsewhere, or you might only be able to max out a stat to a certain limit (commonly 15, 18 or could even be less). 

## Dealing Playing Cards

A highly unusual option is shuffling a pack of cards and picking out 6, with number values allocated based on the numbers 2-10, Ace=11, Jack, Queen, King=12, 13, 14. Jokers can be allocated a number or not.

There are many variations on this, but for me, it feels like just another way of rolling so it is not one I have tried personally.

## Which Approach to Choose?

For my coding tutorial, I went with 6+2D6. It's simple to code and avoids embarrassingly bad rolls. In the past for my C64 tutorials, I either went with an average of 4D6 or the drop the lowest of 4D6 simply because it allows me to teach lists and sorting. 

While the array option might feel limiting, it is likely based on the average outcomes of the 4D6 drop the lowest option from what I can tell. 

Remember also, your abilities can be buffed in several ways, from racial traits and from the acquisition of magical items. The idea also is your character will progress and grow throughout a campaign, so unless you are running a one-shot, you might want to start your players lower than they would like!

### Which option do you like best? and Why?
πŸ‘  , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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vote details (61)
@captainglondo ·
$0.44
Usually I prefer the "standard array" or the "point buy" option if I know what kind of character I want to play. Sure, it could be interesting in a way to play a random person, but I would feel more attached to my character if I have "created" him/her by my choices. Perhaps I am just not too good at getting out of my comfort zone. πŸ˜…
πŸ‘  ,
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@makerhacks ·
I can appreciate that. It's definitely more standard to at least be able to give your characters strengths in the areas they typically would have, a low-charisma bard would be tough to play!
πŸ‘  
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@chefbgob ·
$0.38
4d6and drop the lowest/...but forget stats..u got the dead moth..GGEZ xD
πŸ‘  ,
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@makerhacks ·
The dead moth blows the whole thing wide open
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@sapadetzero ·
$0.33
I personally use point buy since you can replicate the "Standard Array" with it. Plus if you play in anything official, like at a Con or Adventurers League, you have to use one or the other. 

But for that Homebrew game, it all depends on how powerful you want you players to be. My personal favorite is 6+3d6 drop the lowest. It make the PC feel more "Heroic". And in 5th edition it allows for more feats and less stat bumps.
πŸ‘  
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vote details (1)
@shatargat ·
$0.35
I always go with 27 point-buy. Because starting with 18, which is +4 bonus, is too much for a tier 1 character. In the other hand, rolling a low score like 5 or 6 would make a character non-playable. With 27 point-buy method, you can adjust whatever you want within a reasonable border. Also, monster stats are optimised for standard array, so if you go beyond the standard array, you start to bend the game.
πŸ‘  
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@makerhacks ·
I can appreciate that point of view. Back before the pandemic I was in a game and one of the players turned up with a super maxed out character and nobody at the table believed he’d rolled it legitimately - it was like he’d gone through and found all the loopholes to give every advantage. 

That wasn’t fun for anyone but him, he couldn’t understand why we were pissed at him. 
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@steampunkkaja ·
$0.37
I'd stick with the "point buy" system, mainly for balancing purposes (also, I like math).  Otherwise, I'd insist on going bass-ackwards and rolling up a character *before* choosing the class.  Then again, I have rotten luck anyway, so the less I rely on dice, the better.  Dice hate me.
πŸ‘  
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@makerhacks ·
I have seen a couple of people do that - "hmm these stats look like a [ ]", I can see that working for anyone who doesn't mind what class they play.

Lately I have been enjoying Druid after playing Wizards for a long, long time, so I would want to start with the class first :)
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