Wow Marly powerful story, thanks for sharing! I always wondered how you came to be where and who you are, but always assumed you'd been surfing since childhood. This gives me hope that I too could become a surfer some day as I approach my 30th birthday. Sort of felt like I was too old to get into it but obviously it can be done!

Amazing as well that ability to dig deep and find energy that you didnt know was there when you really want something. What a special memory this must be :)

Here's to 32 more years full of waves!

Man surfing is definitely on my bucket list.

I like how the water and waves are like music for the surfer/dancer.

http://picsmine.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Surfing-Meme-surfing-poser.jpg

Listening to your story gave me hope. Especially after you revealed your age where as you coined "My life started"..

I have to be at least a decade younger than you. Even so, do you know how many time i have had the mindset of "There's not much time left!!"

Young, clueless, never dared to go off the beaten path. I think these things describe me. I think it all comes down to fear. I dont have much in life and is deathly afraid to lose what little i have. And so has resorted to this risk-adverse boxed up life that makes me miserable by the day.

Seeing you finding your passion at an age where i consider "end of my youth" gave me a slap to my face. I should not be afraid and yes, i can hypothetically mess around for another 10 years and still make it.

Thank you for your heart-to-heart. It certainly spoke to me and had me pondering my young life.

I love your love friday article @surfermarly . i can't imagine how amazing to  Surf the waves..

love yours article my sister

Wow that was great to know you really living life on the edge :D

Love it!

You said
>It's very easy and comfortable to believe in the idea of a pre-scripted scenario.

That is **key** and very true.  

Changing our mind or core belief about life or a situation is akin to working a group of muscles. At first it takes purposeful and tiring effort, conscious thought and practice.  

So, if you had sat on the beach with your surf board and watched others surf and wished and wished you could do the same, you never would have stepped into the water. 
You changed your attitude or mindset from I want this, to doing it. You stopped overthinking.

We can change as we **DO** not just as we think. Both are necessary to get where we want to go. 

As you demonstrated with your surfing, the changes come as you persevere and push yourself forward toward whatever goal you've set.  

You worked it, you didn't flip on a switch to instant change.

I liked your life example.  I think you demonstrated the attitude — If not now, when.

Marly, Marly, Marly!

What a powerful story, *100% vote,* and so good to hear of how your life as a surfer began! :)
>*"Two hours passed and I was still unable to get up and stand up on my feet. I was so incredibly sad. Luckily nobody saw the tears running down my face..."*

Wow, what a driven person you must be! Surfing is a very difficult motor skill to master. In my case, it took me a month or more before I stood up for the first time.

***Just in case*** you missed my post about the first time I stood, here is the story:

<center>[**"Learning To Stand"**](https://steemit.com/story/@creatr/learning-to-stand-a-true-surfing-story)</center>

But I have a confession to make. I should probably follow your lead and write the story of how **I *almost* gave up.**

After Walter gave me my first surfboard, I tried it several times and and then put it away. I didn't tell that part of the story yet, maybe for being a little ashamed.

Here's a photo of that board, my very first one:

[![My Surfboard Sings To Me](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZEnxCwe668zWDhUQCHywQfC1AwMqGpjqB7SfFgHxferh/boardtop.jpg)](https://steemit.com/story/@creatr/my-surfboard-sings-to-me)

Later, my cousins from Sweden visited me. I got out the surfboard again and we *all* tried it, but nobody got up. So I put it away again. :(

I don't really remember how long it actually was from when my friend gave me the board until I finally made up my mind that I was going to learn, no matter what.

I had to go out *every day* for a month before I stood up for the first time!

Let me tell you, that was frustrating. But I will be glad forever that I didn't give up. As you know, and as you shared in your story, surfing is ***life changing!***

Thanks for sharing your experience and insights about this.
BTW, as a Christian, I do *not* believe in reincarnation. I believe in ***resurrection***. Jesus has promised to give me a perfect, reconstructed body one day.

In fact, my latest series - [**Whispering Hope**](https://steemit.com/story/@creatr/whispering-hope-forbidden-tales-from-your-bright-future) - talks a lot about that. I plan to surf some ***100ft+ waves*** one day in that new body, and I hope you will join me! :D

Take care, Dear... Hugs! And keep writing. ;)

😄😇😄P.S. By the way, I didn't stand for the first time until I was in my late 40's... ;) :D

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Wooo super post ;)

I had no idea when this became your life, I love hearing the story of how it began! My husband always says it's not simply loving what you do, it's being obsessed with it haha, he will love this story too! And I know what it's like to be obsessed, when I am in the middle of writing a book you could shout my name ten times before I will hear you, I'm so lost in that world. And yes, I also know what you mean about finding that last reserve of energy. I ran long distance in high school. Not track, but cross country, which means our races were miles long. And no matter how exhausted I was, I would dig down deep and sprint that last hundred yards, generally passing two or three people, and when I crossed that finish line, whew, my legs would be rubber and want to collapse from under me, and I would feel like throwing up.  Actually I even did throw up once.  

One thing though- the majority of Christians do Not believe in reincarnation, they actually think the belief in reincarnation is a Paegan or heathen belief which translates into BAD in their book.  Buddhists believe in reincarnation, and most Christians think Buddhism is wrong.  What Christians mean by Born Again is something else entirely.  They think that by accepting Jesus as Lord and Savior He transforms them, wakes up their spirit, washes away their sinful past and that's what makes them 'born again'.  

My brother will relate to you so much! He always loved playing the guitar and singing, but he didn't know that he had it in him to write and compose his own songs. I kept telling him to try, and finally he did.  He now has over twenty original songs, and this was his very first one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3H9SnNXII8

Amazing story! You were combining your personal experiences with philosophical explanations. That's exactly the same what I'm practising in my life. 
My friend Lisa (I talked about her) had her turing point when she went into the air with a paraglider. Now she is almost always in the air.

Great story of overcoming failure.
Reminds me of how i discovered snowboarding.

Nice post. I like your post. Iam from Indonesia

you are actually so right @surfermarly - you need to find your passion in life, something you burn for, something which is located deep in your heart! And if you don't do things you burn for, you will always have a little unsatisfied feeling deep in your subconscious mind! :-)

I wish you a great weekend!

I love your story. It's really never too late to do anything. Great post! Resteeemed and followed! :))

The sad part is getting old and realizing that destiny is something that you tried to make happen and change again and again and you may have failed multiple times. Once you get past a certain age it's hard to continue to want to try to change. It's like swinging a bat that is gradually getting shorter and shorter and you realize you may never actually be able to hit the ball with it.   We have to tell ourselves that it's important to try.

I always admired surfers and always wanted to learn how to surf, but I'm so terrified.  I love the beach and ocean and that is why we moved to El Salvador.  You inspire me and I absolutely love reading your posts about surfing and maybe one day I'll be able to try it myself.

yes! thank you for sharing your story. :) I think my first time surfing was when I was 23 too! Follow your passions and yes... pay attention, when life knocks, be ready! :) Love that your moment of pure joy was captured! :)

this gave me goosebumps of inspiration!

It can't be compared, but I had a similar experience at my 7-8 years old, but with riding a bike! 
My parents offered me a bike and I took some time to loose the fear of riding it alone. One day my father said if I was not using it, he would sell it. It was a click for me...and on my bday, ​I start riding it by myself!! Still love to ride :)

<p>This post has received a 3.75 % upvote from @lovejuice thanks to: @abh12345.  They have officially sprayed their dank amps all over your post rewards.  GOOD TIMES!  Vote for Aggroed!</p>

https://steemitimages.com/0x0/https://media.giphy.com/media/cTw8V1RMKo3Bu/giphy.gif

i have just upvoted your amazing story @surfermarly .. i'll be happy if you wanna see my page

Thank you for a great post, I like it!
I tried surfing once and I just fell forward swallowing few gallons :P
But I really wanna try it again ^^


Please check [my new post](https://steemit.com/life/@paps/neurological-levels-a-tool-for-achieving-your-goals), I think you will like it!
@paps