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body | "Welcome to hive blockchain, I hope you can enjoy stay here, remember Rome does not build in a day, hardworking and perseverance keep us going forward. I could say you choose the best community. Once again welcome." |
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permlink | wilno-w-sloncu-i-na-podniebieniu |
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title | "Wilno w słońcu i na podniebieniu" |
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body | "<p>
<blockquote>
So you won't say that there's only bad weather in Vilnius.
</blockquote>
<sup>Laurynas</sup>
</p>
<p>
Opisałem już swoją <a href="https://peakd.com/hive-191315/@szmulkberg/piec-stolic">drogę do Wilna</a> oraz <a href="https://peakd.com/polish/@szmulkberg/wilno-po-longobardzku">większą część mojego pobytu pod znakiem chłodu i wilgoci</a>. Teraz przychodzi pora dopowiedzenia, co udało mi się zobaczyć, gdy w końcu wyszło Słońce. Dopowiem też co nieco o litewskich specjałach, bo było kilka rzeczy, które mnie szczerze zaskoczyły.
</p>
<h4>Ogród Bernardyński</h4>
<p>
Ten urokliwy park znajduje się w zakolu Wilejki, na tyłach klasztoru bernardynów. Zachwycił mnie pięknie mieniącymi się w późnowrześniowym słońcu barwami jesieni. Jest to też zaciszne miejsce pomimo tego, że znajduje się nie tak daleko centrum miasta. Zapewne zawdzięcza to temu, że po drugiej stronie rzeki także znajdują się tereny zielone — nieco na północ od niego jest Wzgórze Trzech Krzyży, a na wschód, jak się właśnie dowiedziałem z mapy — Wzgórze Grobu Giedymina (kolejny punkt do zobaczenia przy następnej wizycie, kiedykolwiek ona będzie).
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23xVErWVH6tJeemyM6oyy9BePCXohQEGJeydSoeRLBmSjsTAw6ngLqQN1KNCp3WWoYP9r.jpg" alt="Wilno2_1_ogrod_bernardynski.jpg">
</p>
<p>
Poza drzewami, ławkami i alejkami w Ogrodzie Bernardyńskim znajdziemy też bardzo typową lunaparkową karuzelę dla raczej młodszych dzieci i miniaturowy ogród botaniczny, a w zasadzie to kilka klombów z różnymi roślinkami. W czasie moich dwóch spacerów tamże można było spotkać też włoskiego artystę i jego asystentkę, którzy zapewniali dziatwie rozrywkę w formie pokazów baniek mydlanych.
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/243Bc7QRcvpAjibAh1XtSUZZHdYWzBm77Zh7RJRcDn19UiMQfJvYzHGeudg5koBsUBMnr.jpg" alt="Wilno2_2_karuzela.jpg">
</p>
<h4>Zarzecze (<i>Užupis</i>)</h4>
<p>
Po drugiej stronie Wilejki znajduje się także dzielnica, której klimat skojarzył mi się z krakowskim Podgórzem — zarówno pod kątem topografii, architektury jak i hipsterskiego klimatu. W 1997 r. proklamowano tam „republikę”, którą można znaleźć na przeznaczonych dla turystów mapkach. Skojarzenie z Podgórzem wzięło się od pnących się pod górkę uliczek, podobnych do tych, które można znaleźć, idąc w stronę podgórskiego kościółka św. Benedykta.
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23wMWJBnaRGnsvPGcq8qEXjRsqHSew26wVLPDnwougHmzigx5u1oPCeErqskJCKVWxWUP.jpg" alt="Wilno2_3_Uzupis.jpg">
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23x1BAQEBp5uedkRbUZE3vY6aSKVfH4AtrEXHdhQbHYysnvt3pFHs21ZEwPU3WXpvXA7t.jpg" alt="Wilno2_4_Uzupis1.jpg">
</p>
<p>
Nad samą Wilejką stoją kamieniczki, a dalej mamy, jak widać na zdjęciach, mieszankę różnych stylów z różnych epok. Jest to kolejny pakiet wijących się uliczek czekających na eksploratorów, chcących sprawdzić, gdzie ich zawiedzie aktualnie obrana droga.
</p>
<h4>Wielki wieszcz</h4>
<p>
Gdy mijałem wileński ratusz, moją uwagę zwrócił stojący na jego schodach ogromny pomnik. Postać przypominała mi Adama Mickiewicza, ale nie mogłem znaleźć podpisu, więc nie byłem pewien, czy to czasem nie inna postać, którą Litwini mogą uważać za bardziej dla nich zasłużoną i godną upamiętnienia w takim miejscu i takiej skali. Pomnik wyglądał też bardzo nowocześnie, więc spodziewałem się, że może to być ktoś, o kim w ogóle nie słyszałem.
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23x1AzDr6jjorj5THHmWpi8ctcPjCRax2mLnLfPJD45QVcnWm3CuRM1yyL7TYF8KvbcWT.jpg" alt="Wilno2_5_Adam.jpg">
</p>
<p>
<a href="https://www.tvp.info/54949540/z-inicjatywy-muzeum-wilna-przed-budynkiem-wilenskiego-ratusza-stanal-pomnik-adama-mickiewicza">Jak się jednak okazuje</a>, był to właśnie nasz wieszcz od <i>Pana Tadeusza</i>, <i>Ballad i romansów</i> itd., a rzeźba powstała na podstawie projektu sprzed stu lat, choć z mniejszym rozmachem. Może bano się, że dwunastometrowy Mickiewicz będzie śnił się ludziom po nocach?
</p>
<h4>Green pass</h4>
<p>
Jak wspominałem w poprzednim wpisie, przy wjeździe na Litwę wymaga się złożenia oświadczenia w sprawie Covid-19. Przy każdym wejściu do restauracji czy na koncert (raz nas to ominęło, bo przyszliśmy w niedzielny wieczór całkiem dużą grupą) skanują kody QR z informacją o szczepieniu, wynikach testu itp. Bez tego nie można brać udziału w życiu knajpianym czy kulturalnym.
</p>
<h4>Egzotyczne smaki i połączenia</h4>
<p>
Napiszę o kilku litewskich specjałach, z których część poznałem wcześniej, a część w trakcie tego wyjazdu. Niektóre rzeczy zaskakują, zwłaszcza w kwestii połączeń.
</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p>
Pierwszą rzeczą, o jakiej napiszę będą batoniki twarożkowe w czekoladzie. Poznałem je dzięki temu, że @hallmann sprowadził je kilka razy do <a href="https://peakd.com/@krolestwo">Królestwa Bez Kresu</a>. Są lekko słodkie, a szczególnie cenię w nich kremową konsystencję z lekką nutką pianki. Zaczynam od nich, bo zamieszkała w Wilnie koleżanka poleca je do śniadania. Wyrabia się je także na Łotwie i Białorusi oraz w Estonii.
</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>
Kolejną jest chłodnik litewski. Tak, dziwne, że o nim wspominam, bo przecież było zimno przez większą część mojego pobytu w tym mieście. Okazało się jednak, że w miejscu, gdzie się akurat stołowaliśmy (restauracja Gabi przy ul. św. Michała) była to jedyna zupa bezmięsna (a był akurat piątek). Jest to to, co znamy w Polsce: zupa na bazie gotowanej botwiny z kwaśną śmietaną lub zsiadłym mlekiem, ale u Litwinów obowiązkowym elementem jest dodatkowy talerzyk z gorącymi ziemniakami. Według miejscowego znajomego celem jest kontrast pomiędzy zimnym a ciepłym, a jest to dla Litwinów tak oczywiste, że gdy mojemu rozmówcy podano w Polsce chłodnik bez tego dodatku, był tym zaskoczony.
</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>
Kuchnia litewska z kuchnią polską, zwłaszcza kresową, dzieli kartacze, tam znane jako cepeliny. Są to duże, podłużne pyzy z mięsem. W rzeczonej restauracji podano je z tak dużą ilością tłuszczu, że ktoś musiał uznać, że trzeba mnie dotuczyć przed zimą.
</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>
Jednym z patronów Litwy jest św. Jacek, tak więc pierogi muszą być. Tutaj znane są jako kołduny (lit. <i>koldūnai</i>), co ma znaczenie, bo litewskie słowo powiązane z naszym wyrazem <i>pieróg</i> oznacza ciastko.
</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>
Na deser pozostawię największe dziwactwo. Niby same znane składniki, ale w jakiej kombinacji: oblany czekoladą wafelek wypełniony musem jabłkowymi. A w musie kawałki sera i kmin rzymski. Całość ma formę małego batonika akurat mieszczącego się w dziecięcej dłoni. Jest to jedna z tych rzeczy, które mi całkiem smakowały, ale jednak nie mógłbym tego zjeść w zbyt dużej ilości.
<center>
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23wCC982hFnY3h6CLDEgm7TjXVqjzisqsKnzmmd5YANUT4wx23Q6p2eZFbGy5KRahGRxQ.jpg" alt="Wilno2_6_batonik.jpg">
<sup>Dla tych, co nie chcą wierzyć, zdjęcie papierka 😉</sup>
</center>
</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h4>☙</h4>
<p>
I tak dobrnąłem do końca mojego pobytu w Wilnie. Był to dość intensywny tydzień, głównie ze względu na próbu chóru festiwalowego, ale też udało się co nieco zobaczyć. Na pewno jeszcze kiedyś będę chciał pobłądzić uliczkami Starego Miasta i Zarzecza. Uświadomiono mi i uświadomiłem sobie, co jeszcze powinienem zobaczyć (choćby Wzgórze Grobu Giedymina i cmentarz na Rossie). Co najważniejsze, udało się dotrzeć, powrócić i zdobyć nowe wspomnienia. Na sam koniec wrzucę zdjęcie muralu ze św. Franciszkiem z Asyżu, znajdującego się nieopodal klasztoru bernardynów i opisanego wyżej parku.
<img src="https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/szmulkberg/23ynN9VSgAm12Vqv3dMu7fSDiEgNH3mzS6P4jihDUHU5pTK9Kr1QCJ693C68faH25ZYin.jpg" alt="Wilno2_7_mural.jpg">
</p>" |
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